Cathkill Dale, sinkholes and timetabled cows

A funny one today. A 10 mile loop from Monyash, across numerous fields and stiles. Stiles. Squeeze and step – just working this out…squeeze a narrow stone post space though the wall. Step, slabs built into dry stone walls to climb up and over (right handed in layout). There was manicured scenery at the start: orderly village; neat phone box library (with a squeeze stile) and timetabled cows.

Changeable weather en route, a nativity scene and more unusually, cows. Love how the baby cheesus features more than cows on this blog. There was also a 90 degree stone staircase up the side of the valley which was a bit hairy with the Sidstar.

The walk took an interesting turn at the far end of Cathkill Dale. I mean, just look at these photos…

An eerie, waterfall and cave dotted path starts wide and accessible before entering a fairlyland of scarlett elf cup mushrooms and dense moss coated trees and boulders. There are two fenced off ‘natural’ sink holes where the overflow river water runs into a different channel under the river bed. The only kind in the country. And people made features as per.

In the Bulls Head pub after there was a buzz, good nosh and natter.

“I were born and bred in Monyash. We live in [Derbyshire village] now. Tiny place, middle of nowhere. My wife, she’s only just become deaf. I’ve been deaf since I was born. I can lip read, she can’t. We come here a lot to walk around and eat in the pub. Good food and drink here.”

“The pub is too noisy, there’s too much background noise.”

“Are you visiting the area?”

“No, we live in Buxton?”

“Buxton is cold, we lived there 12 year. It were cold. Where in Buxton?

“Brown Edge…”

“Ah, my sister lives there. Opposite the care home. Number 2023.”

Practicalities: Not sure about public transport, village car park and some road parking. Mixed dog walking in terms of on/of lead. Sid learned to manoeuvre step stiles on this walk so more on lead than off. Cathkill Dale is a nature reserve, dogs should be kept on a lead and not enter the water. Bulls Head pub does a good range of nosh with variable opening hours.

Jacobs Ladder, Dylan, Dougall and Brian

Day 5/18 of UCU strike days and the sun was shining. A good day to walk off work angst in the Edale Valley (or above it). A walk in three parts.

1. Up

Set off along an idyllic valley, wide path, easy on the upwards, parallel to a stream.

The path and stream eventually merged and became a random sized boulder hewn, waterfall drenched clamber up. And up a bit more.

There was the odd person/people ahead and behind in the distance. A woman was clambering down.

‘Is it worth it?’ I asked, peering up at what looked like a cliff face.

‘Mmm.’ She thought for a moment then said more definitely, ‘Yes, yes it is. I’m just starving. I didn’t bring any food.’

Food? Now there’s a thought. [Gulp]

At the top the landscape was transformed. The sun had gone, leaving peaty, dark, forbidding and stunning.

2. Across

Across the top were flagstone paths and eery rock formations. ‘Be careful in the mist’ warned the book. It wasn’t misty and easy to get lost as paths disappeared between boulders and intermittent flagstones. Some looping the loop, wearing out Sid.

‘Eh, I think I’ve seen this rock before…’

A man appeared in the now rainy and almost misty terrain. A sassy and chunky corgi type dog with him reminded me of Stan and the Peepy Thing.

‘We’re trying to find the Pennine Way back down to Edale…’

‘Ah, you’re doing the opposite way round. Just follow that path straight up there, you see those people in the distance? There’s a left turn that meanders down to the valley.’

3. Down

Down was as spectacular as up and across. Just different. Taking in Jacobs Ladder (the path down to the bridge below), a few cairns and more of a rolling valley feel.

At the bottom, a tiny nativity scene in a stone alcove by a farm. Dylan, Dougall and Brian had pitched up packing that Peak District punch.

And the sassy corgi was already back in Edale.

Practical stuff: Train station or pay and display car park in Edale. (No phone signal to pay online so cash needed.) Dogs can be pretty much off lead the whole way (depending on their temperament and ability not to leap off massive rocks into space.) The clamber up is quite something though a quick google suggests alternative routes up.

Snackage is probably a good idea (!) The Nags Head, open Weds-Sun, has a good set of nosh options including various sausages, mash and sauce.